An Insightful Afternoon

So yesterday afternoon, I had a continuation of a conversation that Caitlin and I had with one of the local rickshaw cart operators.  The previous day, I helped him move around some things while we were waiting for the tram to arrive.  That lead to about a 30 minute conversation with him and we talked about his life, where he went to school, etc.  He showed us his driver's license and filled us in on some of the aspects of life in Kolkata.   As the conversation progressed, he told us about his wife and son and we had a great conversation.

Then yesterday afternoon, I made sure that I stopped to chat with him as I walked home from school.  I wound up sitting in his cart, having tea and eating fruit as we talked about everything.  Him and his sisters were Rainbow Children at the school where I teach, his sister and him speak excellent English.  I was introduced to his mother, his father, his brother-in-law and his nephew and a few others that were around.  It was an incredible hour or so of conversation on the street that was a fascinating glimpse into the life of some of the ordinary people of the city.  He has been a driver, a mobile phone repair technician, and several other things.  Ashish was filled with details of life in the city and how the economics work in Kolkata.  Perhaps, the most interesting part was how many Indian people just stopped to watch us talk in the back of the cart. The were absolutely fascinated that I was sitting there having a conversation.  Ashish told me they wanted to know what language we were talking in and what we were talking about.  Usually, they would stay for 5, 10, 15 minutes and then go on about their business.  Totally cool.  After about an hour, I was going to walk back to the hotel.  He came along and we talked as we walked back about the city, people he knew, what life was all about and where he lived.

We sat for about 3 hours just talking in my room and discussing life.  It was pretty cool talking to his wife and son, even though she did not know much English.  My hotel room is like a dream house to him is what he said.  When he left, I sent him home with the various toiletries from the room, some jeans that did not fit, some fruit, and a few postcards from California.  It was such an incredible afternoon just spending time finding out about what life is really like here for some of the everyday people I see working on the streets.  Him and his whole family live in a village outside of Kolkata and take the train in every morning to work the carts and carrying goods around the city.  Pretty amazing how they make it happen.  Definitely one of the highlights of my trip to India so far.  

Red Light District, New Light, Education, and Hope

After school this afternoon, we took some taxis down to the Kolhagadt police station to walk further into the red light district and meet the founder of New Light and the children who attend school there in the evenings and at night.  Walking into the neighborhood was a blast into another world, one of the poorest of the poor and a section of Kolkata that is very destitute.  We traveled down some pretty rough streets and then took a turn through a side alley where working ladies  stood at the entrance to the alley and as we walked, small rooms lined the alley with a bed and small cooking stove inside and maybe a few blankets.  We continued down the alley past the goats and kids, turning through a small doorway and up some stairs.

At the top of the stairs was an oasis of laughter, children, and learning.  As New Light was described to us by the director, it began in 2000 due to random chance events.  Previously, she worked for a large foundation and after many years of glitzy fundraisers and turning away those who needed help from their gates, she wanted to do something to make a difference.  After a few boys approached here about helping their football team find uniforms and supplies, she took 10,000 rupees and started New Light.

New Light takes in the children of the sex workers and provides them with three meals a day, yoga classes, education, and opportunities for advancement and success.  Many of the children that started with the organization are now completing college and working in nursing school, on higher education, and other things.  These are the children that the rest of society has discarded and abandoned as insignificant and worthless.  Their mothers recognize the opportunities presented by New Light and there is now a waiting list to be one of the 215 children at the school/shelter.  Students visit with their mothers during the day and are in touch with their families.  Local merchants supply food and supplies to the group.  The community gets to reap some of the benefits of educating these children and the ripple effects have been felt throughout the community, city, and world.  When the US Secretary of State travels down back alleys to visit your organization and Ambassadors come to call, you know that something is going right.

This group is making a difference and it shows in the faces of the many children in the center.  Tonight, we spent several hours at the site talking with the children, working with them, and just interacting with them.  Interestingly enough, they wanted to know all the Spanish that we could conjure up, so that was quite fun.  I had some good conversations with some very intelligent and engaged students.  It was one of the best experiences of my trip here so far.

Students here are very bright and engaged in their own education.  They are very curious and recognize the opportunity that they have to escape the cycle of sex trafficking and the sex trade.  I was very happy to see that they are focused on both the boys and the girls since both are part of the solution.  There was a genuine respect for each other throughout the center and a comradely that was very warm and welcoming.  I saw some parents bringing their children to the center and stay for a bit to observe.  Students take turns doing yoga while others watch and play different games.  Meditation is a key component to the evening assembly and allows time for students to collect themselves, reflect, and find that serenity that comes with being in a safe haven.  

Back to School and Filling in for an Absent Teacher

After my wonderful break from reality in Agra at the Oberoi there, it was back to work albeit a bit late this morning in Kolkata.  When I arrived, I started the day with the delightful 6th grade students working on magnetic properties and experiments and then it was an exciting day of teaching all the classes (10, 8, 7, 12) of the Geography teacher who was absent.  Three teachers were absent today, so it made for an exciting and busy day.

Geography here is not just locating countries on maps, it is more of an environmental, locality, natural resources, manufacturing resources, etc. type of class.  Had quite the day of fun locating the various classrooms and teaching lessons on the fly.  Overall, it went very well and kept me busy the entire day.  I think my favorite class today was the year 12 girls.  I had them read and mark an article from the New York Times on waste-pickers in India and their formalized status and its impacts.  We had a really amazing discussion about the impacts on India's class and caste systems, on local communities, on the idea of self-respect and what it means for a person and a community.  This was one of the best moments so far of my teaching here in Kolkata.  Excellent insights from the students and a wonderful way to learn about the many variations found throughout the country.  

Morning Mists of Agra

From the pages of my moleskin....

As I sit this morning, listening to the peacocks howl, I see the outlines of the Taj Mahal through the misty rain.  Sipping my cup of tea, I'm reminded of the scale, elegance, beauty, and ingenuity of the monuments I saw yesterday.

No words or pictures can ever adequately describe the Taj Mahal.  The simplicity of the white marble combined with the intricate inlays and filigree are astonishing.  As an expression of the love for a partner, it is truly awe inspiring.  I am sad that his son was not as romantic since he killed 12 of his 13 siblings to ensure his father did not build the black Taj and bankrupt the dynasty.  I think the saddest part of the whole story is that he imprisoned his father in the Agra fort where he died looking out at the Taj Mahal he built to show his undying love for his wife.  His surviving daughter who was caring for him buried him next to his wife before her brother could return from a war campaign and prevent it.  His burial here is the only thing that upsets the symmetry of the entire design.  No matter which way you view the Taj Mahal, it is perfectly symmetrical even to the mosques on either side.  Only one was originally built, but he felt an additional one was required to preserve the beauty of his wife's heaven on earth.  Again, absolutely sheer elegance and grace, mesmerizing beauty and form.

           

The Agra fort is incredibly complex and gargantuan.  No other word can describe the massive size of this structure.   We visited it in the teaming downpours of the afternoon monsoon rains.  It was a perfect time to visit to see some of the defenses designed into the fort in action and see the once again amazing drainage and water storage and distribution systems working.  I have never seen any building constructed on the scale of the fort.  It was a fort, palace, and a city all contained within the walls.  I believe the population was around 30,000 or so when it was built.  The moat is very large, the walls are many meters thick (you can have a soccer field on top of them), and go on for several kilometers.  Another impressive world heritage site.

Listening to the multitude of birds and sounds outside, I am reminded of my time in Brisbane.  It is that same sound of the jungle life and birds calling through the trees.

I am still overwhelmed and astonished that I am here and in such luxurious surroundings.  Truly thankful and on those days during school when it gets rough, I will look back and find the peace I have right now.  Being a teacher is rough sometimes, but right now is not one of those times.  How many other science teachers are drinking tea and watching birds fly in front of the Taj Mahal from their balcony?

I didn't get to see the moon over the Taj Mahal or a sunset over it because of the rains, but I like to think that is something special I can share with Bueno when we get here together one year.

Hollie, no cockatoos eating off of me, just birds flying across the balcony and peacocks howling in the gardens below.  I guess that's okay.

I feel at peace and in touch with myself.  I have found an inner balance again and realize that we can create beautiful and amazing things int he world.  Little or big, sometimes it is just the simplicity of the design that is all that is needed to express our love, desires, and hopes.  Life can take many turns, so we need to stop and reflect every few days to find that balance and strength that comes from within, but is also derived from those we love around us.  The Taj Mahal is the most expressive sign of love and commitment, but I want to make sure that I show that to my loved ones before they are gone.  Much as I like to think that Shah Jahan did.

The clopping of horse hooves over the calls of the multitude of birds signals time for more tea and a few moments of reflection.

First Impressions of Agra - Home of the Taj Mahal

Again from the pages of my journal....

An understated elegance and a view of the Taj Mahal are my first impressions of the Oberoi Agra.  Since nothing I can imagine can compete with the Taj Mahal, they have instead complemented it with an astonishing level of detail and elegance.  Stunning decore, artwork that highlights the very best of India and a shimmering chandelier to greet you in the lobby do little to prepare you for the sight of the Taj Mahal through the windows or from your balcony.
Apparently, when I wake up as the sun rises, I will have a stunning view of the Taj Mahal from my balcony and bed.  Wish Bueno was here to share it with me, but we will get here sometime together.  Excited to be here and ready to experience all this city has to offer.

Good night.